The Primitivo Vineyards

The starting point isMottola(Taranto Province), known as the “Ionian Viewing Point”or the“Balcony of Southern Puglia”because of its height above sea-level and privileged location: it is possible to see the Gulf of Taranto and the green mountains of Calabria’s Sila region. This is a land dominated byPrimitivo, probably Puglia’s most famous indigenous variety, and one of the Region’s wine emblems in the world. This famous variety originated atGioia del Collein the late 1700s, and was called Primitivo (or Primaticcio) because it matures early. The nature of the landscape and the exceptional climate of this area have meant that Primitivo has adapted well to the gentle Ionian Sea breezes, and its wines are excellent. Mottolawas one of the first places in Puglia to be settled in prehistoric times, shown by its very many cave dwellings. There are a lot of places around the province where evidence can be seen of human activity in the very remote past: along the limestone gorges (gravine), the beds of dried-up rivers (lame) and in the natural caves. Massafrais another interesting town, and it is first recorded in a 10th century parchment kept in the archives of the Abbey of Montecassino; this document describes a multi-ethnic community of Greeks, Latins and Longobards. Visitors to this area should not miss the Museo Nazionale di Taranto, where they can see some important relics of wine-making in the past, dating back to the Magna Graecia era: amphorae, mixing vases, hydrie, kantharoi  and oinochoi are on show. A text on a wine flask describes the nature and origin of the wine – a Vinum adadinum from Pezzano near Massafra. Now it is time to turn away from the sea and head inland to discoverCrispiano– known as the “town of a hundred farmsteads” – andGrottagliewith its ceramics, appreciated all over the world and the result of a tradition originating in the Middle Ages. Vineyards, olive trees and majestic fig trees line the roads along the route towardsLeporano,SavaandManduria, the absolute heartland of Primitivo wines. Mandura was once known for its figs and tobacco, but nowadays is famous for itsPrimitivo di Manduria, a red Doc with a dense, dark colour. This strong wine is also popular overseas, and the typical alberello vines can be up to  eighty years old. Castellanetais worth a special mention as the birthplace ofRudolph Valentino, the star of silent film. The town has a museum dedicated to him, with some interesting documents and pictures including postcards and posters of the actor and a copy of the tent used in the film “Son of the Sheikh”.